Vegan leather has become a major marketing category in fashion. The assumption is that vegan automatically means better for the planet. It doesn't - at least, not always. The environmental story depends entirely on what it's made from.
The majority of vegan leather on the market is made from polyurethane (PU) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) - synthetic materials derived from petroleum. Both are plastic. Neither biodegrades. Both shed microplastics with use. Both are produced from a fossil fuel supply chain.
Compared to conventional animal leather, PU leather typically has a lower carbon footprint at manufacture. But it has a much shorter lifespan and ends up in landfill rather than decomposing. A leather bag that lasts 20 years may have a lower lifetime environmental impact than three PU bags that each last five to seven years.
Piñatex - made from pineapple leaf fibres, a byproduct of pineapple farming. More breathable than PU, partially biodegradable. Used by Puma and Hugo Boss.
Mylo - made from mycelium (mushroom roots). Fully biodegradable. Used by Stella McCartney. Currently expensive and limited in availability.
Desserto - made from nopal cactus. Partially bio-based. More durable than many plant alternatives.
Conventional leather carries the emissions of cattle farming, which are significant. Vegetable-tanned leather is better: plant-based tannins, less toxic waste, more biodegradable product. High-quality vegetable-tanned leather goods kept for decades may have a lower lifetime impact than repeated replacement with synthetic alternatives.
